Travel
Mela Chiragaa(n) Da - Lahore's Festival of Lights
by SHAHAB ANSARI
Lahore
‘Mela Shalimar
Ka' is a decades old poem by the late Ghulam Mustafa Tabbassum, known as
Sufi Tabbassum, which still echoes in the mind of those belonging to
the generation of the 60s and 70s since its about the golden days of the
Mela Chiraagha(n) (Festival of Lamps), also known as 'Mela Shalimar Ka',
which started on Friday (March 25) here in the provincial metropolis.
Mela Chiraghaa(n) is a jewel in the crown of the culture of Punjab, the
Land of Five Rivers, the land of peace, tranquillity, love,
open-heartedness and hospitality that it was just a few decades back.
Mela Chiraagha(n) has been associated with the great Sufi saint, poet,
revolutionary and a crusader of human freedom and rights, Shah Hussain,
who is buried in Baghbanpura, near Shalimar Bagh. People of the
locality, the adjacent and nearby villages and from all every nook and
corner of the province come over to the great Sufi saint's shrine to
light a lamp on his grave, to get their wishes fulfilled.
Mela
Chiraagha(n) is a three-day annual
festival to mark the Urs of Shah Hussain. The festival used to take
place in the Shalimar Gardens until President Ayub Khan ordered
against it in 1958.
The festival used to be the largest in the
whole Punjab, second only to Basant. It is still one of the grand events in the
provincial capital and hundreds of thousands of devotees from all over
the country take part in the festivity.
Shah Hussain, also called the
poet of love, was born in 1538 AD. He was a radical thinker. His poetry
has a spellbinding effect on the listeners at the shrine, which has been illuminated by
thousands of lamps and candles.
‘Maa-ee ni mai(n) kinoo(n) aakhaa(n),'
‘mahi mahi kookdi', ‘rabba meray haal da mehram too(n)', ‘mandi haa(n) kay
changi haa(n), sahab teri bandi haa(n)' and ‘mein vi Jana jhok raanjhan di naal
meray koi challay' are among some of his famous kafees. He was the first
Punjabi Sufi poet whose writings were a mixture of five languages, i.e.
Punjabi, Pothohari, Hindi, Persian and Arabic.
His kafees are so simple
that one can understand his message without any difficulty. ‘Knowing
God by knowing ourselves' is the main theme of his poetry. His work is
romantic and has symbols of the rich romantic tradition. These kafees have been sung by lovers of Sufi poetry for centuries, and will continue to mesmerise the next generations with its message of
peace and love.
Dr. Mohan Singh Diwana collected 163 of Shah
Hussain's kafees and, according to his findings, he was a true
scholar and intellectual. Some researchers wrote that Guru Nanak was the
first poet who wrote kafees in Punjabi language but, the kafees of Shah
Hussain, Bulleh Shah, Sachal Sarmast, Khawaja Ghulam Farid and Pir
Qutab Ali Shah are also gems of the Punjabi literature.
Devotees attribute a
number of karamaat (miracles) to Shah Hussain. One may or may not
believe them, but no one can deny the literary genius of the saint. Even
today, his poetry attracts a great audience.
The marble-domed
memorial of the Sufi poet at Baghbanpura, near the Shalimar Gardens,
does not appear to be old. It is said that after his death in 1599 AD,
Shah Hussain was buried at Shahdara, on the western bank of the Ravi,
but a few years later, the tomb was swept away by a flood. Then, it was
shifted to its present site.
Besides the grave of Shah Hussain under the
same dome, there is also a grave of Madhu Lal, a son of a Hindu
Brahmin, with whom the saint was deeply attached. Therefore, a large
number of Hindus also come to attend his Urs.
During the
festival, drummers perform at the shrine and youths and women dance to a
deafening beat. The festival attracts a large number of artistes who
sing his kafees and dance to the drums.
Locals say that the shrine
was a focal point for celebrating Basant before the partition of Punjab. Maharaja
Ranjit Singh used to celebrate Basant at the tomb. Once, the Maharaja gave
robes of honour to all his cabinet members and ordered them to reach the
tomb in Basanti dresses. The infantry was ordered to dress in the same
colour and stand on both sides of the road from the Lahore Fort to Shah Hussain' tomb.
One of the attractions of the festival is
its bazaar. In the past, it was a major point of shopping, but presently
it has been reduced to the sale of general goods, toys, edibles,
garments and bangles.
[Courtesy: The News]
March 26, 2011